Thursday, January 19, 2012

ART: Rodarte Fashion Design


 Is there anyone who doesn’t like these gowns?  They are quite remarkable, and slightly odd, the components of golden metallic star belts/bodices, feathers, pleats, crystals, and sequins are almost an unlikely proposition: draping, cinching, wrapping, and frothing around shoulders, waists, and skirts of  soft pastel chiffon and taffeta columns.  I can hear Tim Gunn’s cautionary murmur.
But they are so restrained in their opulence, symmetry and proportion controlling the luxurious excess.
Is there anyone who wants to talk about sacred and profane?  Fashion design from holy imagery? The Oscars aren’t an Annunciation, or a cause of spiritual ecstasy. But before we are hasty, consider the Renaissance itself for its admixture of the sacred and profane, no less so than our own times. Perhaps Fra Angelico created in grace, but the Renaissance patron-artist system was a working success story of money, prestige, politics, and power - sounds very modern.



I do wish there was an ultramarine gown of rich satin with seed pearls and gold banding...now, how about a Botticelli project?  I actually think the gowns look more like Botticelli than Fra Angelico.  The day I saw the exhibit, small groups of women stood about murmuring and debating - which one would you choose?
Is there anyone who doesn’t want one? If I had one,  I’d probably find myself on a stairway to Heaven instead of strolling a red carpet, they are all that beautiful. It’d be a kind of glorious love-death. 
Looking again, for me, it’s  deeply refreshing to view fashion made with this level of drama, conviction,and integrity.