Sunday, April 26, 2015

TRAVEL: White Pocket Utah - another version of desert pin striping

The rainy weather left us uncertain as to how to enjoy our last day in Kanab. One of the Travel Advisor write-ups described The Wave as a Bach fugue and White Pocket as Night on Bald Mountain. Programmatic rock formations, yes! -  the perfect end to our trip would be White Pocket.

Luckily, on our way home, a guide returned a morning inquiry and was willing to take us out there, confident that his Tahoe and his alternate path would take us safely upon the deep sandy off-road.


It was windy and cooler than our Wave hike day, and the sky was astonishing, as only Western skies can be, the clouds shouldering  each other and the skyline for display room.

Our guide was a personable Utah born former and still respectful Mormon, Mike. He was charmingly late because his mare's foal arrived early in response to the storm. This event seemed especially beguiling to Jane, still very much the queenly rural spirit representative in our group.  

It's a two hour trip out to White Pocket, entering from south 89A rather than 89, a much simpler trip which we could have made ourselves but for foot-deep sand, possibly wet from yesterday's rain.

We hiked down a sandy path, then gazed on more sandstone and slick rock, but in colors and shapes spectacular and wondrous strange indeed,

as if the rocks had simply stopped swirling only a moment ago, their currents and materials mysterious and drooping,unstable, though frozen lo, these millions of years.
Here the russets, siennas, and red ochre were violent and turbulently worked through with cream, taupe, and gray sandstone. The gray stone that topped off the headed mounds
yet seemed stripped of scalp or skin, bulbous globs of form that looked like exposed brain matter.



 Slick rock tree, planted by cowboys growing their own - shade.


Climbing slip rock is easier than it looks - the natural grit of sandstone offers the lug soles of a hiking boot a satisfying footfall.
Up and down, each view changes dramatically, the features of the rocks so compressed.


Mike explained that iron in the sand forms into small roughly spherical "marbles", which nestle spilled on the sandy surface.
Skull like, frosted top-offs abruptly exposed upon sandstone mounds.


We climbed up and into this "clamshell" hollow facing a gray frosted sentinel. 






Then down and on through...


this marvelous view and fun downhill scramble


The only native plant on the slick rock in this area - a seep gives opportunity to tiny tears, and a miniature hanging garden grows.


Interrupted divided striations, once whole and ongoing, like mini-earthquake faults.

On and on, being among the formations offers me an experience of strange connection, a feeling that my body and mind have unity with  the forms and shapes within space.


Sustaining my wonder at the finely scraped textures of the sandstone.

An expressive sagging scowl

Such evidence of might and power

Looking out 50 miles to the northwest, I think, towards Bryce and the higher mountains, still covered with a recent snow dusting.


In ponds like these breed the unusual and hardy fairy shrimp.  Their eggs lay in casings in the rock's depression, awaiting a rain puddle. Not just any puddle, but one that will become algae-filled and last for 5 days or so.
The eggs hatch and the tiny creatures have a few days to mate and lay new eggs before the puddle finally evaporates.


lupine

claret/scarlet/crimson hedgehog cactus

milkvetch?

As always, I marvel over wildflowers.



A condor sanctuary has been established here in the Vermilion Cliffs area off 89A for years now.  The population has grown to 75, a a better record than California's, I think.

Our guide said that beef carcasses are still put out for them.  On this windy day, we spotted none, but could find a nesting area stained white with their droppings. 

The two hour drive back to Kanab gave us more distant views across the sagebrush and redrock, green with recent spring rains.  

Then  one more night to dine and sleep in Kanab before saying goodbye to Lanny and Jane in Las Vegas.  Their flight left at midnight, and John and I drove home.  Back to Los Angeles, our world so separate from where we were, the discontinuity of the city always disappointing and yet the pleasure of return to a home and our chosen life and place. 



Saturday, April 25, 2015

TRAVEL: Johnson Canyon & Lick Wash


The next day the weather was even more problematic.  Rain in the desert makes marginal roads impassable, fills streams with extreme suddenness. Caution led us to drive out to Lick Wash via Johnson Canyon, a less-visited area around Kanab but the only recommendation to be had that day from BLM.
A butte I couldn't resist hiking to and attempting to climb.  This was not feasible but it was still a beautiful cream edifice with Indian paintbrush folded into its drainage lines.



Lick Wash was not water filled in the mid-day, but damp areas revealed that the rainstorms had dipped into the wash and trailed their evidence.

The wash was sunless on that day, and its rocks, though deeply striated, were subdued greyed and taupe.  Spring had not yet released the leaves from their buds on the trees in the wash, and I can only imagine what a lovely place it would be later on in spring.  Nonetheless, it was a remote 
surprise, the wash cut deep into the plateau around it.





This tree root had to have been 30 or 40 feet long,extending well down to the canyon floor, looking like two alligators having a fight in a brown river.  It rained hard on the way back to the motel, and a wrong turn had us driving through muddy stream beds. Lanny and Jane did a marvelous job at the do-it-yourself carwash cleaning the Jeep up, and our boots too.  

Friday, April 24, 2015

TRAVEL: Bryce Canyon Utah




We needed an easy day after the Wave hike, and weather had turned rainy and cold.  A jaunt to Bryce was perfect. It had snowed the night before at higher elevations, and the sky was filled with dramatic clouds and storms, in the manner of a place of big sky vistas.

Bryce Canyon's "hoodoos",the strange anthropomorphic lumpy columns in seeming family and neighborhood gatherings inspired Walt Disney's Fantasia animation.   

I like the idea that they are sentinels, gathered to commune and watch without time off - always there, waiting.


Or perhaps row apartments for spirits, passing in and out through hidden windows, with their swallow friends. 


Jane's favorite view - storm, sun, shadow, a hyper-real weather drama.  Mine, too.
Bundled up and enjoying Bryce together.

Thursday, April 23, 2015

TRAVEL: Kanab, Utah, The Wave 4-23-15

Kanab arrival, dinner, Scrabble, and up early the next day to do the famous and unusual "Wave" hike.  Jane, Lanny and I all entered the Bureau of Land Management raffle for hiking permits to the Wave.  With three of us, I reasoned, mostly speculatively, that we would have a better chance at the 3 day window we were required to specify. 20 individuals per day are allowed in to protect the integrity of the unusual site.

And Jane got one!  According to the BLM website, about 5% of applications are selected during this period.  


First, a long drive 2 hours, to the trailhead on House Rock Valley Road, a gravel/sand/dirt road that runs N-S between 89 and 89A. Dire warnings abound, but unless it's raining, the road is passable for most cars.  I was glad we had a 4 wheel drive though.  

Lanny, always the stalwart techie 
scientist, spent his patience account learning to use Garmin GPS so we could hike alone.  The hike itself is poorly marked, and BLM supplies GPS waypoints and photos with landmarks (a generous description) of hiking points to direct one's steps.  Still, people get lost every year, and many hike it during hot summer, with 100+ temperatures.  

Our hiking day was cool, 68 degrees, and we were glad of it.

We hiked 3 miles in and out, mostly uphill on the way in, across slip rock and between rock formations, gazing at the amazing colors and the fitness of stratification - as if the cliffs had been plowed surgically with fine discs, the horizontal cuts interrupted with swaggering diagonals and contouring planes defining cliffs and nodes.
We clamored up the last sandy rock face to enter the Wave area. It's intense, dynamic, immediate, and perfectly named.  



The Wave has a harmony that is undeniable and irresistible - an ultimate testament to water and wind and their unyielding and triumphant power.
There is a discomfiture in being in the Wave's volumes. The upset of balance, the flamboyant and yet harmonious tweaking of the horizonal - the yielding and hardness.  


Yet it still remains a place at peace, in harmony.  Sedona should be envious at the power and beauty of this place.
And it wants you to come in and walk it.  It's easy - sandstone is so gritty, it helps you to climb up cliffs that look difficult at  first, and yet one still feels the flowing power, frozen for a few geological moments, changing constantly, and mostly with a slowness we cannot see but only know by reason.

What an appealing place to sit - its so easy to slow down, sit and watch and wonder, it comes to you with no effort, just a light champagne-like marvel at the privilege of wonder.

Flora 
Tufted Evening Primrose
A lovely pure large flower among the crannies - Wordsworth had it so correct - that turns pink as it fails and dies.
sand star

In the wash on the way into The Wave

The details in the sandstone are marvelous, too.


This raw scarification in one wall of the Wave was distinctive and singular.  It's like a navel, a place where a disconnect occurred, wrenching the flow free of its feed source.


Water evaporation here? Nipples, breasts, topography in miniature.




 Disorienting swirls that seem odd amidst the flowing perfection of the walls - some sandstone jelly roll of time's mixing.




Now I understand flowing water so perfectly.

And so goodbye to the Wave from a high viewpoint above, looking down at a marvel of earthly wonder.