Another short transit during dinner and sleep and we all popped out of bed at 4:30am for a hike to see one of the world's most beautiful birds, and Indonesia's most famous: the bird-of-paradise. About 15 travelers gathered at trail's end, quietly waiting until about 6:00am we heard squawking, something like a parrot. At first elusive, we watched the canopy above us and watched as two males fake-fought over a female. Their magnificent feathers rose around them as they skirmished. Bested, the winner spread his wings over the now-willing female, enveloping her.
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| RL* Greater Bird of Paradise, near Sawingrai Village, Gam Island |
Alfred Russell Wallace theorized a theory of evolution at the same time as Darwin, even writing him letters sharing his theories with him. Darwin would go on to make a life work of evolutionary theory, while Wallace, supporting a family with no independent income, hunted for bird, insect and butterfly specimens all over Malaysia and Indonesia. His books made for fascinating reading in-between our daily jaunts.
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Christine said later she felt like the experience under the trees together was like a sunrise service - and so it was for me. I gave a great prayer of gratitude for my privilege to see these things.
Later that day, we visited a pearl farm. This proved to be highly interesting. Atlas Pearls is an Australian company which runs a "pearling" operation. The pearls are seeded in Bali, and then brought to remote Aljui Bay, placed in these mesh nets, and later harvested.
"... they are sent for maturation to Alyui Bay on Waigeo Island in Papua Here, Atlas has some 2,500 hectares of water leases capable of supporting over one million adult oysters.
The remote Alyui Bay site offers
secure and sheltered waters located on the equator outside the cyclone belt,
relatively stable water temperatures and pollution-free and nutrient-rich
waters ideally suited to the Pinctada maxima oyster. Atlas is committed
to protecting this pristine environment and supports international
conservation groups within the world recognised marine area of Raja Ampat.
The Alyui operation boasts a
sophisticated and modern operations centre, three major pearl growing sites,
jetties, boats and a range of support infrastructure such as accommodation,
recreation, workshops and warehouses, not to mention the most stunning scenery
ever seen." (Atlas website)
Of interest also is this website, a field report about the challenges of establishing a business in a remote and undeveloped area: http://www.mcatoolkit.org/Field_Projects/Field_Projects_Indonesia_2_Atlas_Pearl.html
From what I could see, not many pearls are recovered perfectly round, explaining why they are so valuable. For me, they remain the preferred jewel. I love their live biological origins, although I did consider whether or not pearl farming is moral. The oyster can only grow a few pearls before it is "repurposed", usefully, I must say.
But I couldn't help thinking of the film Never Let Me Go, based on the book by Kazuo Ishiguro, about humans bred for organ harvest.
Later that day, cruising around in the tender, we saw an older woman fishing with a hand line in a traditional prahu, carved from a log. This photo, by Gina Ruttle, captures the essence of the Indonesia for me. I saw these boats in the museum in Jakarta, imagine, here is someone who lives like this.
We walked through the small village returning to the boat. So modest, so simple…how astonishing to see these lived lives: a small baby, delivered without a doctor, whose mother died, tiny children with no toys, running on the beach at play…I bought candy and gave it to them. They accepted shyly with broad smiles. And how they all loved to have their picture taken!
I felt like I'd been washed by a giant wave - not a description in a book, not a documentary, not Nat Geo. Real. All for real.
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